Uluru

Tuesday 8^th July 2008

It was SOOO cold this morning and inside my bed I was at least warm... I couldn’t get out of bed to check out the sunrise and I really didn’t regret it! The girls slept late as well so that made it a good reason to stay in bed.

In between Paul doing business deals and me cooking tonight’s curry we managed to persuade the girls to do some schoolwork although mostly through bribery and threats, sadly. For Holly I said she could get started on her presentation that she wants to do for her class and then we couldn’t drag her away from it! Katie did her maths and then was allowed to listen to Horrid Henry – again.

After lunch we dragged them out to the Visitors Centre and around the displays that were excellent with a sandy spot where they could make various animals’ footprints and some interesting info – Uluru is made of sandstone, Kata Tjuta is made of composite stuff, although both created around the same time.

The shops/hotels/centre was full of ‘other people’ which left us feeling not so special after all when thousands of others are here too – been spoilt by WA and the relative scarcity of tourists.

We went out on the road to Uluru – it is so impressive as you get close up to its 343m height. The actual climb was closed today due to high winds at the summit but normally you are allowed to climb it even tho the traditional owners (the Anangu) request that you don’t. They have a word called Tjukurpa which sort of means ‘the Dreamtime’ (all their laws on how to live, all their stories of how things were created , laws on how to look after the land etc) but they don’t like to use that phrase, very sensibly, because it diminishes what it stands for.

We started the spot where the climb would start and did the Mala walk (rufous hare wallaby) which takes you off to the left past some rock art (not so well preserved, but then there were hundreds of footprints inside the barriers intended to keep people out – I think policing the activities of the tourists would be a nightmare here, also, they tend to draw new paintings over old as they retell stories, which doesn’t make for clarity of pictures), and round to the Kantju Gorge (with signs asking us to refrain from swimming – quite amusing since there was not a skerrick of water when we were there). It was all flat and signposted and not at all strenuous but the girls added to their difficulty factor by climbing up inside some caves.

There are places around the rock where they ask tourists not to take photos – sacred sites etc. and I’m glad we didn’t because at the Cultural Centre we found that not only could you risk big fines but also it can bring you bad luck. It’s a bit bizarre, tho’ because the Sunrise Viewing Spot is right in the middle of one of those areas!

We did a circuit of the rock (in the car – there was no way we were going to try and walk with the girls around the 9.4km perimeter!) and stopped at another ‘water hole’ – the Mutijulu. Apparently there was water there in the beginning of May and the frogs are now buried underground waiting for the rain to return.

We had planned to visit Kata Tjuta (the Olgas) as well today but the 100km round trip and the fact that we have to go past them tomorrow anyway meant that I was able to persuade Paul to visit the Cultural Centre – another very well done presentation that even the girls found good parts about. It’s such a shame that they have been ‘over-cultured’ because I am sure that under normal circumstances (ie. A visit to here without two months of sight-seeing, gorges, visitors’ centres and culture overload beforehand) they would have taken a lot more in.

We then headed out to the Sunset Viewing area to secure a good spot before the crowds. Seems like plenty of others had the same idea because with 45 minutes to go the car park was nearly full already. However, it was well organised and everyone got excellent views of the changing colours of the rock as the sun set behind us. Holly sat in the car reading her book, poking her head out every now and then to check out this one-in-a-million view but it was exceedingly chilly already so I have to admit that I didn’t stay outside for all the time!

We joined the queue of cars leaving the park and enjoyed a good view of the Olgas with the lit up sky behind them.

Back at the caravan park I cooked dinner inside – two reasons – didn’t want to get cold myself and wanted to try and warm up the camper (with some degree of success). By the time we went to bed it was bitter cold – inside my sleeping bag and under the doona/duvet I am wearing thermals, thick socks, beanie and warm jacket and I could really do with some gloves. The girls have three or four layers of clothing, sleeping bag, doona and hats and I hope they stay warm – these canvas walls are useless – the only thing they stop is most of the wind.